Summertime and the Cruisin' is Easy
Even if you’ve done the trip many times before, it’s still hard not to be impressed by the magnificent vista of the Hauraki Gulf that stretches below you as you fly into Auckland from the north. A myriad of beautiful islands dotted with sandy bays makes it one of New Zealand’s premier cruising grounds, popular with both local boaties and visitors. Bruce Duncan outlines some of the best cruising spots close to Auckland.
Very often one of the hardest decisions to make for those venturing out into the wonderful playground of the Hauraki Gulf is where to go. No matter where you head, be it Kawau, Great Barrier or the bottom end of Waiheke, the choice of safe anchorages and things to do – from beach and bush walks to diving and fishing – is endless.
Given the wide range of options on offer, a little prior planning with the crew should ensure everyone’s needs are catered for. Those with no time constraints could easily spend a few months exploring the Hauraki Gulf but in reality few of us are that fortunate, hence the requirement usually to plan a trip from a few days to a week. It is best to limit the area you cover – you will relax and enjoy your cruising a lot more and get the best out of your time. Most of this article therefore focuses on areas that are within comfortable cruising distance of central Auckland.
There are a number of books that are helpful guides, such as the Royal Akarana Yacht Club’s Coastal Cruising Handbook which details all the bays and anchorages, giving the type of holding and wind direction they are best suited for.
For keen fishermen, Fishing the Hauraki Gulf provides the information needed to target over 200 of the best fishing spots in both winter and summer. From the keen novice to the expert angler and diver, one of the bonuses when cruising the gulf is that you are surrounded by Mother Nature’s pantry, offering an abundance of seafood delicacies such as snapper, flounder, kingfish, scallops and crayfish.
If you need to charter a boat there are many options available in Auckland from large, fully crewed sail and motor boats, where all you need do is just relax and enjoy the sights, to those that offer a more hands-on experience. Also available is a wide range of smaller boats including launches, yachts and catamarans of various sizes catering for couples or larger groups. Experienced boaties can charter these as a bare boat, or there is the option of having them crewed.
FIRST STOP RANGITOTO ISLAND
For those heading out into the Hauraki Gulf for the first time, a good initial stopping point is Rangitoto Island, only a few kilometres from the centre of Auckland and one of the city’s most warmly regarded landmarks.
Rangitoto is among the world’s most perfectly formed volcanoes and is separated by a small causeway from the oldest island in the gulf, Motutapu. Islington Bay, which separates them, is a perfect first-night anchorage and is protected from all wind directions except the south. It’s a popular overnight spot for Auckland boat owners and can get quite busy on summer weekends, but it’s a big bay and you’ll normally be able to find a quiet spot, particularly during the week.
Marked on the chart at the entrance to the bay are some small areas of foul bottom that will often hold a lot of snapper. However, if it is breakfast you want with minimum effort, a freshly caught flounder is the ideal way to start your day.
Generally, all you need to do is set a net overnight on the eastern side anywhere from halfway to the top end of the bay.
Rangitoto has a network of well marked walking tracks that will take you through densely wooded pohutukawa forests that thin out to just volcanic boulders as you reach the summit, revealing one of the best views of the Hauraki Gulf as well as central Auckland and its surrounding suburbs.
ON TO WAIHEKE VIA RAKINO ISLAND
When heading around the eastern side of Motutapu, it is worth the short trip across to Rakino Island even if it is just to circle the island and view its interesting rock structures and shore line, which is also well worth a dive for a crayfish. 
Anchoring for morning tea and a swim in beautiful Woody Bay will set the scene for the leisurely trip to the south for a close look at the northern side of Waiheke Island. Think about the options before your arrival. Not only is there a choice of magnificent bays with sandy beaches to anchor in, there are also cafes and shops within easy walking distance of a number of these.
Over the years, Waiheke Island has experienced a big increase both in permanent residents and Aucklanders building weekend retreats there, transforming it from a sleepy summer holiday spot to an allseason destination with world-class wineries, restaurants and lodges.
Oneroa Bay is the first large bay as you approach from the west and within the bay itself are a number of smaller bays all offering good holding and protection from the wind from the west through to the south west. If the wind is light and from the north round to the east, the bay is safe to visit by day but it is not advisable to stay the night.
There is good fishing to be had, especially at the change of light either out in the middle of the bay or close to the rocks. If your luck is not in, Oneroa is Waiheke’s main commercial and retail centre and a meal ashore looking across the bay at all the boats at anchor as the sun sets is an attractive alternative.
The main bay can get crowded with boats at peak holiday periods, but at other times you’ll mostly have only the locals for company.
As you make your way to the east and round Thompsons Point, Onetangi Bay opens up before you and the best anchorage if the wind is from the south is under the cliffs at the southern end. A large scallop bed can be found one hundred metres off the cliffs to the south of Thompsons Point and snapper can often be located on the sand anywhere across the whole of the bay.
The very pretty stretch of rocky coastline further east offers good fishing and diving and has a couple of magnificent sandy bays to anchor in for a relaxing lunch and a swim before you round Thumb Point and enter Hooks Bay.
The area is well worth a visit as not only does it offer good fishing and scalloping but you can walk up to the ridge from the southern end of the beach for stunning views of the Gulf to the Coromandel.
The more adventurous and energetic can explore and marvel at the massive gun emplacements and the labyrinth of underground tunnels constructed at Stony Batter in complete secrecy during World War Two to guard the entranceway to Auckland.
THE RIVIERA OF THE HAURAKI GULF
The eastern end of Waiheke is referred to by many as the “Riviera of the Hauraki Gulf” as there are a number of smaller, picturesque islands close together, including Pakatoa, Rotoroa and Ponui, all with tree-lined bays and white sandy beaches.
You could easily spend a relaxing week in this area alone, pottering around fishing and diving, walking the beaches or just soaking up the scenery.
When the wind is from the southwest to the north, there are some 18 bays of varying size from Orapiu Bay to Kauri Point on Waiheke all offering a wide range of anchorages. If the wind is from the north to the southeast, it is only a short hop across to one of the many sheltered bays that the nearby islands offer.
One of the features of cruising within the area is marvelling at some magnificent houses that dot the shoreline, from quaint old historical homesteads to modern palatial mansions.
The bottom end of Waiheke is the ideal stepping off point for those wishing to go further afield to the many islands of the Coromandel or on to the pristine and more sparsely populated Great Barrier Island where again you could spend a week or more visiting the many bays, bush walking and in the summer months game fishing.
Great Barrier is rich in history as it was the site of gold mining and intensive logging of giant kauri trees that were highly valued for ship building. You can still see where the loggers dammed the streams to wash the logs out from the hills. A must if there is time on the return voyage back to Auckland is a visit to Kawau Island and its beautiful bays and historic landmarks such as the original residence of Governor Grey, the fully restored Mansion House, and the copper mine close by.
The sparkling Hauraki Gulf was exposed to the world when New Zealand held two America’s Cup yachting defences in its waters, with the rich and famous bringing their super yachts down under. While the cup has departed these shores, a flotilla of mega boats and smaller cruising boats still come each year to enjoy the Gulf’s beauty and to experience one of the most magnificent harbours in the world.
The Hauraki Gulf was exposed to the world when New Zealand held two America’s Cup yachting defences in its waters, with the rich and famous bringing their super yachts to our shores.
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